The Upstairs Delicatessen: On Eating, Reading, Reading About Eating, and Eating While Reading
Overall Ranking 3) Consider reading
What is the book about?
Dwight Garner's The Upstairs Delicatessen is less a traditional food memoir and more of an eccentric literary feast. It's a collection of essays, a meandering exploration of Garner's lifelong obsessions: food, books, and the delicious intersection where they collide. Think of it as a peek into the mind of a voracious reader and eater, a man who finds as much pleasure in a perfectly grilled hot dog as he does in a well-turned sentence. He's not concerned with trendy restaurants or Instagram-worthy dishes. Instead, he celebrates the simple pleasures of a good meal, the comfort of familiar flavors, and the joy of discovering a new literary gem.
Garner's writing is sharp, witty, and unapologetically opinionated. He's not afraid to skewer culinary pretension or literary snobbery, and his essays are filled with hilarious anecdotes and insightful observations. He writes about everything from the perfect pastrami sandwich to the joys of reading in bed with a plate of cookies. He delves into the culinary worlds of his favorite authors, exploring how food has shaped their lives and their work. It's a book that invites you to pull up a chair, grab a snack, and join Garner on his rambling, yet always entertaining, journey through the realms of food and literature.
Disclaimer/You Should Know
Many of the negative reviews that you see about this book is because there are instances where he brings up books or historical figures that talk about food and its association with sexual activities. It is true that there are some mentions that occur throughout the book. They are very small, quick lines written by some of the most influential "foodies" authors in history. I will happily defend it being in his book because food is sexual. And it is for many reasons for which I shall argue shortly.
Here is an example of one of the paragraphs people likely complain about. Granted it was tough to find, and I had to search for several minutes to find anything:
"I like to imagine I'm cooking as well as does Louise, a character in Fran Ross's novel Oreo. Her cooking destroys people. 'Five people in the neighborhood went insane from the bouquets that wafted to them from Louse's kitchen,' Ross writes. 'Three men and a woman had to be chained up by their families.' Later, on a train another man tastes Louise's food - her 'Apollonian stuffed grape leaves, her revolutionary piroshki' - and says: 'Oh my God, it's so good I'm coming in my pants.'"
First, I will defend it being included because food is sexual because hidden within all their nutrients and flavors are natural aphrodisiacs. Foods like oysters, rich in zinc, have long been associated with increased testosterone production. Dark chocolate contains phenylethylamine, a compound that can elevate mood and feelings of pleasure. Chili peppers, with their capsaicin content, can stimulate endorphin release and increase heart rate. Food at a molecular level can and does make you horny, or at the very least horny adjacent.
On top of that, their textures, aromas, and flavors engage multiple senses, mirroring the multifaceted nature of sexual arousal. The ripe fullness of a peach, the dripping sweetness of honey, or the vibrant color of berries can all be used to create a vivid and visceral experience for the reader. The act of eating itself can be highly sensual, and writers often exploit this connection to draw parallels between the consumption of food and the experience of sexual pleasure.
Authors really get at that gut-level connection between eating and wanting, adding a whole other layer to how they explore desire. To pretend they didn't see the world that way would be missing out on a huge part of what they were trying to say. That's why I'm so glad this book actually dives into it and doesn't shy away from showing how food and pleasure are all mixed up together at all levels.
By incorporating these naturally arousing foods into their narratives, authors tap into a primal understanding of the link between consumption and desire, adding another layer of depth to their exploration of sensuality. To skip over these would be to ignore how those writers viewed and experienced the world. A true disservice. And for that I am glad that this book took the time to include it.
Key Takeaways
The Intersection of Food and Literature: Garner highlights the deep connection between eating and reading, showing how both activities can nourish the mind and soul.
Celebrating Simple Pleasures: He emphasizes the joy of everyday food experiences, reminding us that deliciousness isn't always about fancy restaurants or elaborate meals.
The Power of Personal Taste: Garner's writing is unapologetically opinionated, encouraging readers to embrace their own unique culinary and literary preferences.
Humor and Wit: The book is filled with witty observations and humorous anecdotes, making it a highly entertaining read.
Literary Exploration: He delves into the culinary worlds of his favorite authors, providing insights into how food has influenced their lives and work.
The Importance of Nostalgia: Garner often reflects on the power of food to evoke memories and create a sense of nostalgia.
Rejecting Pretentiousness: He skewers culinary and literary snobbery, advocating for a more down-to-earth approach to both food and books.
The Joy of Reading and Eating: Overall, the book is a celebration of the simple joys of life, reminding us to savor both the food we eat and the books we read.
Would I recommend reading it?
Putting down The Upstairs Delicatessen is like saying goodbye to a particularly engaging dinner party guest, one who's regaled you with fascinating stories and witty observations. You close the book feeling a little lighter, a little more appreciative of the simple pleasures that surround us. Garner's writing has a way of infusing everyday experiences with a sense of wonder, reminding us that even the most mundane meal can be a source of joy and connection. He celebrates the comfort of familiar flavors, the satisfaction of a perfectly cooked dish, and the power of food to evoke memories and create a sense of belonging. It's a book that encourages you to slow down, savor each bite, and appreciate the culinary moments that make life so delicious.
This book is a delightful escape, perfect for a quick read during a lunch break or a few pages before bed. It's structured in a way that makes each paragraph feel like its own little story, built around a recurring pattern: first, a relatable personal anecdote about food or a food-related experience; then, a carefully chosen quote from an author, book, chef, or food critic that echoes that experience; and finally, some insightful reflections on the quote itself. This consistent structure creates a charming rhythm, allowing you to easily dip in and out without losing the thread.
Here is a prime example of what to expect with a short paragraph from page 90 where he is talking about how much he likes hot dogs:
"When you buy a hotdog (or anything else) for someone in need, recall the advice Vivian Gornick supplies in her memoir The Old Woman and the City. A man recounts to her how, as a boy, he bought a hotdog for a 'bum' who ws hungry. His father responded by slapping him. 'If you're gonna do a thing,' the father said, 'do it right. You don't buy someone a hotdog without you also buying him a soda!'"
I'd heartily recommend The Upstairs Delicatessen to anyone who loves food, books, or simply enjoys a good laugh. It's a delightful and entertaining read that will leave you feeling both nourished and inspired. Garner's unique perspective on food and literature is refreshing and thought-provoking, and his writing is filled with wit, charm, and a genuine love for the simple things in life. It's a reminder that food is more than just sustenance; it's a source of joy, connection, and cultural heritage. It's a book to savor, to share, and to return to again and again, whenever you need a reminder of the deliciousness that surrounds us.
Books to Bowls OUT!
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