Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico
Overall Ranking: 3) Kitchen Staple
Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Bricia Lopez and Javier Cabral, 2019, Abrams Books
Backgrounder: This cookbook has been making waves since it landed on shelves (and Amazon's bestseller list) back in 2019. It's been said to be not just a cookbook; but a cultural phenomenon, a love letter to Oaxacan cuisine penned by Bricia Lopez, a culinary powerhouse who's basically the queen of Oaxacan food in LA. She's not just writing about it; she's living it. As a partner at Guelaguetza Restaurant, she's serving up authentic Oaxacan flavors daily, earning a coveted James Beard Award along the way (because it's that good). And if that wasn't enough, she also helped launch Mama Rabbit, Vegas's ultimate tequila and mezcal haven. Because what goes better with amazing Oaxacan food than top-shelf tequila? My guess is nothing.
Beyond the restaurant empire, Lopez and her siblings are also taking their Oaxacan flavors straight to the people with their I Love Micheladas™ cocktail mix and Guelaguetza™ mole paste. It's allegedly like having a little piece of Oaxaca delivered right to your door, but I have never tried not have I heard of it outside of researching this book. If you have tried it let us know in the comments your thoughts.
And because she's clearly not busy enough, Lopez also co-hosts the top-rated Super Mamas Podcast. Because you know, running restaurants, launching brands, and writing award-nominated cookbooks is just a casual Tuesday for Bricia. She's basically a superhero of food and motherhood, juggling it all with effortless style (and a killer mole recipe in her back pocket). So, yeah, Bricia Lopez is kind of a big deal. And her cookbook? Well, let's just say it's pretty freakin' good.
Before you start cooking/baking
Special Equipment Needed
Let's talk tools, shall we? The good news is, you likely already have everything you need to tackle most recipes in this cookbook. However, there are a few specialized tools found in a traditional Oaxacan kitchen that you might not own. The real question is: do you actually need them? While no single item is absolutely essential, some will definitely boost your "authenticity" factor and maybe even make your life a little easier.
Take the tortilla press, for example. You can use a rolling pin, but a true Oaxacan cook (I believe they'd be called Oaxaqueños/Oaxaqueñas in Spanish but that is just from googling stuff so I could be wrong) would reach for the press. Get the picture? It's not about necessity, it's about embracing the spirit, and maybe the efficiency, of Oaxacan cooking.
Here is the recommended 'authentic' but not required equipment worth noting:
- Comal
- A comal is a flat, round griddle used for cooking tortillas, toasting spices, and roasting vegetables. It's a staple in Mexican cooking and highly recommended for making tortillas from scratch, toasting chiles for moles, and other preparations in the book. While a heavy skillet or griddle can be substituted, a comal provides the most 'authentic' results.
- Tortilla Press
- If you plan on making tortillas regularly (and this book will inspire you to!), a tortilla press is a worthwhile investment. It makes the process of pressing tortillas much easier and more efficient. While you can technically press tortillas by hand using two heavy plates or cutting boards, a press provides consistent thickness and shape.
- Molcajete
- A molcajete is a traditional Mexican mortar and pestle made from volcanic rock. It's used for grinding spices, making salsas, and preparing moles. While a food processor or blender can be used as a substitute for some tasks, a molcajete is said to provide a unique texture and flavor that can't be replicated. It's said to be especially important for grinding chiles and spices for moles, as it releases their oils and aromas more effectively.
- Blender
- While not strictly "specialty," a good blender is essential for making smooth sauces, moles, and other preparations. You're going to use it more often than not.
What are my thoughts on these? First up, the comal. This flat, round griddle was something I initially side-eyed. I mean, I've got a pizza stone. I've got pans galore. Did I really need another specialized piece of cookware cluttering up my already overflowing cabinets? The answer, as far as I'm concerned, is a resounding "meh." Is it "authentic" to cook without one? Probably not. Does it drastically change the flavor? I'm gonna go with a gentle "probably not." My tortillas turned out just fine (and dare I say, delicious) without it.
Next on the chopping block (pun intended): the tortilla press. Does it help? Ehhhh, kinda? Look, I caved and bought one. And yes, it did help me crank out tortillas faster than I could roll them. They were also nearly perfectly round, which is a win for aesthetics, I guess. But honestly? It only saved me a couple of minutes. If you're cooking for a small army, or if perfectly circular tortillas are your hill to die on, then yeah, go for it. Plus, they're kind of fun to use, like a culinary toy. And they're surprisingly compact, so they won't take up precious real estate in your kitchen.
Now, the molcajete. This volcanic rock mortar and pestle is a hot-button topic in the food world. Do I have one? Nope. Do I think I need one? Also nope. But… (and this is a big but) I've heard whispers, rumors, legends from those who do own one. They say it's a texture thing, a magical quality imparted by the volcanic rock itself. It's like the culinary equivalent of a secret handshake. I'm not going to wade into that debate. I'm staying neutral territory. All I'll say is that I don't have one, and my food tasted darn good anyway.
Finally, blenders. If you don't own a blender, I'm not sure we can be friends. A food processor? Okay, I get it. They're bulky. But a blender? That's non-negotiable. It's the workhorse of the modern kitchen. It's essential. It's the peanut butter to my jelly. It's the… well, you get the picture. If you don't have one, seriously, what are you waiting for? Go forth and blend!
Potential Challenges You May Run Into:
Ingredient Sourcing: Some ingredients, such as specific chiles or herbs, might be difficult to find depending on your location. However, Lopez often provides substitutions or guidance on where to find them. I myself ordered avocado leaves off of Amazon as my local ShopRite didn't have it (boo ShopRite boo)
Time Commitment: Some of the recipes, especially those involving mole or other complex sauces, require a significant time investment. This is not a cookbook for quick weeknight meals. Many of the recipes require overnight soakings, such as the masa. These are non-negotiable as it is necessary to soften corn or beans to a point where they can be used without screaming at the heavens in frustration.
Recipe Breakdown
- 21% Dependents*, 25 recipes
- 9% Breakfast, 11 recipes
- 11% Tamales and Finger Foods, 13 recipes
- 6% Soups, 8 recipes
- 7% Moles, 9 recipes
- 4% Sides, 5 recipes (mostly black bean related)
- 14% Family Meals, 17 recipes
- 6% Sweets, 7 recipes
- 22% Drinks, 27 recipes
Ingredient Affordability:
Generally speaking, most of the ingredients in Oaxaca are readily available and reasonably priced. It would be one of the more affordable cookbooks to cook with if it wasn't occasionally dragged up in cost due to the occasional unique or slightly less common ingredient. When comparing averages across ingredient costs this book typically falls near the average. Here's a breakdown:
General BREAKFAST average total cost: $6.92
General DINNER/LUNCH average total: $14.51
A Note on Authenticity
Before diving into whether or not I liked this cookbook I feel the need to talk about my feelings on the word authenticity. While respecting culinary traditions and striving for authenticity can be a rewarding endeavor, my primary focus in the kitchen is always the end result: delicious food. I appreciate the historical and cultural context that authentic recipes provide, and I believe understanding the origins of a dish can enrich the cooking experience.
However, I’m not a purist. If a small tweak to a traditional recipe—whether it's adjusting a spice, substituting an ingredient for one that's more readily available, or employing a modern technique—significantly improves the taste or texture, I'm all for it. Ultimately, I believe food is meant to be enjoyed, and if a minor deviation from tradition leads to a more satisfying and flavorful outcome, then that's the path I'll choose.
For me, the pursuit of culinary perfection isn't about rigidly adhering to historical accuracy; it's about maximizing flavor and creating a dish that brings joy. I see recipes as starting points, guidelines that can be adapted and personalized to suit individual tastes and available resources. Sometimes, a "less authentic" approach can unlock new dimensions of flavor or create a more approachable version of a complex dish, making it accessible to a wider audience.
I believe that culinary traditions are living things, constantly evolving and adapting, and I'm happy to be a part of that evolution, prioritizing deliciousness above all else. That being said I have found Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico to be a beautiful and insightful exploration of Oaxacan cuisine and culture, offering a truly authentic and enriching culinary experience. But it doesn't knock my socks off flavor wise.
Why I Love it/Like It/Pass on It/Avoid It:
Oaxaca has earned a permanent spot on my cookbook shelf, becoming a kitchen staple for its deep dive into Oaxacan culinary traditions and its vibrant celebration of flavor. It's a resource I turn to for inspiration, for understanding the nuances of Oaxacan cuisine, and for dreaming up elaborate meals…that I then sometimes regret making. Here's the thing: the food is undeniably good. It's packed with flavor, complex and satisfying, a true testament to the rich culinary heritage of Oaxaca. But… (and this is a big "but")… achieving that deliciousness often requires a Herculean effort. Many of the dishes rely on a symphony of components – sauces, salsas, toppings, sometimes multiple dishes working in concert – each demanding its own prep time and attention.
The result is a culinary marathon, not a sprint. And while crossing the finish line with a plate of beautifully layered tlayudas or richly flavored mole is incredibly rewarding, the journey can be exhausting. There were times when I found myself questioning if I was truly enjoying the dish or if I was just so relieved to finally be eating something after hours in the kitchen that I was simply craving sustenance. The flavors are there, no doubt about it. But the sheer amount of work involved sometimes overshadows the pleasure of the meal.
I do want to give a shoutout to the photography in this as well. As with most good cookbooks the photography is mouthwatering, showcasing the dishes in all their glory, with close-ups that highlight the textures, colors, and garnishes that make Oaxacan cuisine so distinctive. But the photography goes beyond just the food. It also showcases the people, the landscapes, and the cultural traditions that make Oaxaca so special. Interspersed among the recipes are images of families cooking together, artisans at work, and vibrant celebrations, giving the book a rich, anthropological feel. These images add depth and context to the recipes, reminding you that food is more than just sustenance; it's a connection to culture, heritage, and community. The photography in Oaxaca is a testament to the power of visual storytelling, transporting you to the heart of Mexico with every turn of the page. It's a beautiful and inspiring complement to the recipes, making this cookbook a true work of art.
I am happy to say that it's a cookbook that promises a taste of Oaxaca, and it delivers on that promise, but be prepared to invest some serious time and energy to truly savor it. It's a resource for special occasions, culinary adventures, and those days when you have absolutely nothing else to do but immerse yourself in the beautiful (and sometimes exhausting) world of Oaxacan cooking. For those reasons I am considering this book to be a kitchen staple.
Do the cookbook's dishes justify the time, effort, and cost involved?
While some of the recipes in Oaxaca require a time investment and a bit of effort, the resulting dishes are absolutely worth it, particularly when considering the cost-effectiveness of the ingredients. It's true that some dishes involve multiple components – salsas, moles, toppings – which can add to the prep time. But the core ingredients themselves are often surprisingly affordable. Many of the foundational flavors come from readily available and budget-friendly staples like dried chiles, onions, garlic, and spices. Yes, sourcing some of the more specialized ingredients might require a trip to a Latin American market, but even these are often reasonably priced, especially when purchased in bulk. And while fresh produce is essential to Oaxacan cooking, a lot of what is called for is dried which can keep costs down.
The beauty of Oaxaca is that it empowers you to create just below restaurant-quality meals at home without breaking the bank. Think about it: a complex mole sauce, packed with layers of flavor, might cost a pretty penny at a restaurant. But by making it yourself, using dried chiles and other affordable ingredients, you can achieve a very good taste for a fraction of the price. It's an investment of time, certainly, but a savvy cook can maximize the value of each ingredient, stretching their budget further while still creating truly memorable dishes. So, if you're looking for a cookbook that will inspire you to create delicious and authentic Oaxacan meals without emptying your wallet, Oaxaca is a surprisingly cost-effective choice.
Key Strengths:
Authenticity: The recipes are authentic Oaxacan dishes, passed down through generations of Lopez's family.
Cost: Most meals are very cheap to purchase for, allowing you to spend less money creating layers of flavor/texture through additional toppings and sides.
Cultural Immersion: This is the book's greatest strength. It's not just about the food; it's about the culture, the history, and the people behind it.
Focus on Fundamentals: The book doesn't just give you recipes; it teaches you fundamental techniques of Oaxacan cooking, empowering you to adapt and create your own dishes. I am looking at you tamales.
Who Should Buy This Book?
Foodies and adventurous cooks: If you're looking to explore new flavors and expand your culinary horizons, this book is a must-have.
Those interested in Mexican cuisine and culture: This book provides a deep dive into the rich culinary heritage of Oaxaca.
Home cooks who enjoy cooking from scratch: Many of the recipes involve making sauces and other components from scratch, which can be a rewarding experience for those who enjoy spending time in the kitchen.
Recipes that wowed or grossed me out: (with pictures)
Molotes de Masa Con Papas y Chorizo (Crispy Masa Rolls FIlled with Potatoes and Chorizo)
Okay, let's be real. These Molotes de Masa con Papas y Chorizo from Oaxaca? They kicked my culinary butt. This was my maiden voyage into non-taco Mexican cuisine, and let me tell you, it was an adventure. Not necessarily a difficult adventure, mind you. Most of it involved boiling things, which, you know, isn't rocket science. But somehow, it was draining. Like, I felt like I'd run a marathon, but instead of a medal, I had a plate of slightly misshapen, yet surprisingly tasty, molotes. My biggest struggle? The molotes themselves. I clearly needed an abuela whispering sweet nothings of masa wisdom in my ear. Were they too thin? Too thick? They looked perfect…right up until I tried to wrap the potato-chorizo filling inside. Then? Crumbles. Tears. Existential dread. It was a molote massacre. I persevered, though, because I'm stubborn like that. I fried those babies up, and while they weren't exactly Instagram-worthy (think "rustic" bordering on "disaster"), they were delicious. Seriously, the filling was a flavor bomb, and even my slightly-falling-apart molotes couldn't hide that. So, while my molote-making skills clearly need some work (and maybe a few sessions with a wise Oaxacan grandmother), the recipe itself is a winner. Just be prepared for a potential molote meltdown on your first try. You've been warned.
⏰ Total Time: 210 minutes
💰 Total cost: ~$14.00
🍳Total Dirty Dishes: 15
Ingredients 🥚
Potatoes
Chorizo
Fresh Masa or Masa Flour
Vegetable Oil
Guacamole (store bought)
Salsa (not used)
Okay, so where do these molotes land on my personal "Will I Make This Again?" scale? Definitely a solid swallow. Despite the initial molote mayhem, the end result was undeniably tasty. These are the kind of crowd-pleasing bites I could totally see myself bringing to a party or serving to family and friends. The potato-chorizo filling is a guaranteed crowd-pleaser, and once I conquer the molote-wrapping technique (maybe with some practice…or a kind abuela), I think they could even be prepped ahead of time, making them less stressful for entertaining. But let's be honest, my first attempt kicked my butt. I was tired, covered in masa, and questioning my life choices. So, while I wholeheartedly recommend these molotes for their deliciousness and crowd-pleasing potential, be prepared for a potential learning curve (and maybe a nap afterward).
Dependent: Pasta de Frijol Negro (Black Bean Paste)
The optional black bean paste that accompanies the molotes is a bit of a dark horse (pun intended!). It's a simple affair – beans boiled with garlic, then blended with chiles and avocado leaves, finished with a quick fry. The result? A pleasantly bitter paste that, let's be honest, I wouldn't recommend eating with a spoon. However, as a topping for the molotes (and especially alongside some guac), it's fantastic. It provides a welcome counterpoint to the richness of the filling, balancing out the palate and adding a layer of earthy complexity. It's definitely worth making, even if the cleanup is a bit of a… black mark on the experience. Everything in my kitchen seemed to develop a black bean sheen. But here's a pro-tip: if you're feeling lazy (and let's face it, after making molotes, you probably will be), just walk away and let everything dry. The black bean residue wipes right off afterward. So, while it might require a bit of elbow grease (or just patience), the flavor payoff makes this black bean paste a worthwhile addition to your molote feast.
Huevos Rancheros
The Huevos Rancheros from Oaxaca are a solid rendition of this classic breakfast dish, but they're not quite knocking my socks off. With a good guac and those fantastic refried beans (the ones we discussed earlier, the ones that may or may not have temporarily blackened my kitchen), it's a really enjoyable meal. But strip away those supporting players, and the huevos rancheros themselves are…fine. Perfectly acceptable. Not exactly something I'd go out of my way to serve guests, unless I was really trying to impress them with my guacamole and refried bean skills.
⏰ Total Time: 25 minutes
💰 Total cost: ~$5.00
🍳Total Dirty Dishes: 5
Ingredients 🥚
Vegetable Oil
Corn Tortillas
Eggs
Vegetable Oil
Refried Black Beans (dependent)
Guacamole (not in recipe but I added it since I like guac)
The flavor is there, but it's missing a certain je ne sais quoi. It needs more oomph, a little something to make it sing. Even a pinch of cumin would have gone a long way, adding a much-needed depth and complexity. And then there's the oil situation. Let's just say it's a bit…enthusiastic. The dish is undeniably oily, and not in that luscious, flavorful way. More like, "I need a napkin for my napkin" oily. It's a shame, because the underlying flavors are good, but the excessive oiliness detracts from the overall experience. I'll definitely make this again from time to time, but I'll be dialing back the oil considerably. In fact, I'm thinking of air-frying the tortillas next time. That should help cut down on the grease and add a bit of crispness. So, while these Huevos Rancheros are decent, they've got some room for improvement. With a few tweaks (and less oil!), they could be truly great.
Dependent: Rustic Oaxacan Tomato Sause
The rustic tomato sauce for these Huevos Rancheros is…well, rustic. It's a simple affair – tomatoes, onion, garlic, and chiles boiled together, blended, and then fried. The chiles do give it a pleasant kick, a little touch of heat that I appreciated. But like the overall dish, the sauce is missing something. It needs more depth, more character. As we discussed, a little cumin or even charring the vegetables before blending would elevate it significantly. It's good, but it could be so much better.
⏰ Total Time: 25 minutes
💰 Total cost: ~$3.00
🍳Total Dirty Dishes: 4
Ingredients 🥚
Roma Tomatoes
Onion
Serrano Chiles
Vegetable Oil
And a word of warning: when you fry this sauce after blending, pour it slowly and carefully. I learned this the hard way. Let's just say the sauce decided to fight back, splattering hot tomato lava in my direction. I nearly jumped out of my skin. So, heed my warning, dear reader. This sauce is a tasty base, but it's a bit of a wild card. Handle with caution (and maybe wear some safety goggles).
Caldo de Fandango del Valle (Oaxacan Chicken Soup)
The Caldo de Fandango del Valle, or Oaxacan Chicken Soup, from Oaxaca is exactly what it promises: a simple, low-stress, and solidly flavorful soup. It's not a culinary fireworks display, but it's a comforting and satisfying meal that's perfect for a weeknight dinner. The broth, surprisingly, is the star of the show. Despite being made with just chicken and onion, it's remarkably rich and flavorful. The spice level is pleasant and comforting, adding a gentle warmth without being overpowering. It's a nice, straightforward soup that delivers on its promise of deliciousness without any fuss. However, there's one small, tortilla-shaped mystery that left me scratching my head. The instructions suggest serving the soup with tortillas, which, as far as I'm concerned, raises some serious logistical questions. Is this a tortilla bowl situation? Are we tearing them up and using them as makeshift spoons? Are they meant for dipping? There's no guidance whatsoever! I ended up resorting to caveman tactics, gnawing on the chicken with my fingers while attempting to gracefully slurp the remaining broth like a civilized gentleman. It wasn't pretty, but it got the job done. So, while the soup itself is a winner, the tortilla situation needs some serious clarification. Perhaps a little tutorial on tortilla-and-soup etiquette is in order? Otherwise, expect some potentially messy (but delicious) dining experiences. Overall, this soup is a solid choice for a simple and satisfying meal, but don't expect to be raving about it. It's good, it's comforting, it's just…soup.
I apologize for forgetting to film, photograph this one. It's easy to forget when you get hungry enough.
Comments
Post a Comment